Can your socket or MCB take this load?
Choose the appliances that run together, say which MCB feeds each and what it is plugged into, and get a plain answer. Free. What you choose is not sent to us or stored.
A 16 A socket in an Indian home can carry about 3,680 W. A geyser, an iron and a kettle together ask for far more than that. This is a common way for an overload fire to begin: several heavy appliances on one socket or one extension board, for hours, with a plug that slowly gets hot.
This tool adds up what you run together and compares it with the rating of the socket, board, MCB or sanctioned load you pick. It uses 230 V and typical watts of popular models. If your appliance label shows a different figure, type that figure in.
Appliance load checker
Tick an appliance to begin. Your answer appears here.
What to do
If the answer is Near or Overload
- Switch off the heaviest appliance first. Heaters, geysers, irons and ACs use the most.
- Move heavy appliances to their own wall sockets. One socket for one appliance.
- Do not fit a bigger MCB or fuse, and do not bypass or tape down a tripping switch. If the MCB keeps tripping, something is wrong. Get a qualified electrician to check the circuit.
- For a geyser, an AC, a washing machine or an induction cooktop that you use daily, ask an electrician about a dedicated circuit with the right wire, socket and MCB.
- Check that your distribution board has an MCB on every circuit and an RCCB on the supply. The CEA safety regulations 2023 say a residual current device not exceeding 30 mA must be used in a domestic installation. Press the test button on it every month.
If you see or smell trouble
- Switch the appliance and the circuit off at the MCB or the main switch, if you can reach it safely.
- Do not touch a hot or smoking plug or socket with wet hands or bare hands. Switch off first.
- Call a qualified electrician before using that socket again.
If there is a fire
- Get everyone out first.
- Call 101 for the fire brigade, or 112, from outside. The call is free.
- If it is safe, switch off the power supply to the burning appliance or the whole house at the main switch.
- Do not throw water on burning wiring, a socket or an appliance that may still be live. Fire and rescue services in the UK say never to use water on an electrical fire, and Delhi Fire Service says to switch off the power supply first and lists dry sand, CO2 and dry powder for electrical fires. Fight it only if it is small, you have the right extinguisher and your way out is clear.
Signs of overload
- A plug, socket or extension board that feels warm or hot
- A smell of hot plastic or burning
- Lights that flicker or dim when a heavy appliance starts
- A buzzing or crackling sound
- The MCB tripping again and again
- Black marks, a melted pin or a cracked plug
Any one of these is enough to stop using that socket until an electrician has looked at it.
This is a guide only. It is not electrical design advice and not an inspection. The safe load of your home depends on the wiring, the sockets, the MCB and the earthing, and only a qualified electrician can check these. If a plug or socket feels warm, smells of burning or the MCB keeps tripping, switch the load off and call an electrician.
Watts we use and where they come fromThe typical figure for each appliance, and the one we use
These are typical figures from makers' published specifications for popular models, and we use the higher end of what we found. Your appliance may differ. The label on the appliance always wins.
| Appliance | Typical range | Figure we use | Basis |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air conditioner, 1 ton (inverter) | 688 to 1,125 W | 1,125 W | Blue Star 1 ton inverter models, rated cooling power input: 5-star 688 to 875 W (3.27 to 3.88 A), 3-star 1,060 to 1,125 W (4.6 to 5.1 A). Upper value used. |
| Air conditioner, 1.5 ton (inverter) | 1,250 to 1,740 W | 1,740 W | Blue Star 1.5 ton inverter models, rated cooling power input: 5-star 1,250 to 1,300 W (5.72 to 5.86 A), 3-star 1,700 to 1,740 W (7.28 to 7.71 A). Daikin FTKR (opened): operating current 5.51 A. Upper Blue Star value used. |
| Air conditioner, 2 ton (inverter) | 1,855 to 2,220 W | 2,220 W | Blue Star 2 ton inverter models (opened): IA322TXU 1,855 W (8.5 A) and IA322VXU 1,900 W (8.69 A), 230 V. LG US-Q24SNXE (opened): rated cooling power consumption 2,220 W; LG AS-Q24ENXE 1,966 W. Highest opened value used. |
| Air conditioner, 1.5 ton, fixed-speed (not inverter) | 1,385 to 1,456 W | 1,456 W | Blue Star 1.5 ton fixed-speed 2-star models, rated cooling power input: FA218TXU 1,385 W (6.22 A) and FB218VXU 1,405 W (6.3 A), 230 V (both pages opened); FB218DNU 1,456 W (search summary of the Blue Star page only). Highest value used. |
| Air cooler (room or desert type) | 100 to 300 W | 300 W | Crompton (opened): the air-cooler collection's power filter runs from 100 W up to 200 W, the company's guide says a cooler typically uses 100 to 200 W and, in another line, that most use 150 to 300 W. Highest value used. |
| Geyser, storage type | 2,000 W | 2,000 W | Havells Instanio 10 L storage geyser (opened): 2,000 W, rated input current 8.7 A, 230 V. Some other storage models are listed at 3,000 W on retailer pages (B). 2,000 W is used because it is the verified manufacturer figure. |
| Geyser, instant type or 3,000 W storage | 3,000 W | 3,000 W | Crompton Rapidjet Dlx 3 L instant water heater page title (opened): 3000W. Havells Renzo 3 L and A. O. Smith FAST-ON 3 kW listed at 3,000 W on 230 V (B). |
| Immersion rod (for a bucket) | 1,000 to 2,000 W | 2,000 W | Crompton immersion rods (opened): 1,000 W and 1,500 W models. Havells immersion rods (opened): 1,000 W. Thermocool Mega Hot (opened): 1,000, 1,500 and 2,000 W. Highest value used. |
| Induction cooktop, one burner | 1,200 to 2,000 W | 2,000 W | Havells induction cooktops listed at 2,000 W on 220 to 240 V, with power levels from 120 W to 2,000 W (Havells Evo Cook TC20; Reliance Digital and Croma listings). The lower end of the range is from earlier consumer sites and is not used. |
| Microwave oven (convection) | 1,150 to 1,950 W | 1,950 W | IFB 25SC4 25 L convection (opened): input 1,400 W microwave, 1,950 W convection, 1,000 W grill; supply 230 to 240 V. LG 25 L grill models list 1,150 W microwave input (B). Highest mode used. |
| Air fryer | 1,500 W | 1,500 W | Havells Prolife air fryers are listed as "Power : 1500 W" on a Havells category listing page (not a single product page). One brand only. |
| Electric kettle | 1,300 to 1,600 W | 1,600 W | Philips 1.5 L HD9373 and HD9378: 1,300 W. Bajaj Black Beauty 1.5 L: 1,350 W. Havells Craft 1.5 L: 1,600 W. Upper value used. |
| Electric rice cooker (1 to 1.8 L) | 700 to 750 W | 750 W | Havells Craft 1.8 L (opened): 700 W, 230 V, 50 Hz. Orient Electric 1.8 L listed at 750 W (search summary only). Highest value used. |
| Mixer-grinder, 750 W | 750 W | 750 W | Philips HL7759, HL7760 and HL7777, Havells Hydro and Unity, Preethi Zodiac: all listed at 750 W, 230 V. |
| Refrigerator (double door, about 250 L) | 100 to 200 W | 200 W | Haier India (opened): 'A 190L to 250L unit typically uses 100 to 200 running watts.' BEE labels and LG spec pages for this size give kWh per year, not watts. Upper value used. |
| Iron | 800 to 2,000 W | 2,000 W | Bajaj Majesty range: Travellesta 800 W, MX3 1,200 to 1,250 W, MX35N and MX45 2,000 W. Upper value used. |
| Washing machine with heater (front load) | 1,000 to 1,700 W | 1,700 W | LG 7 kg front loader FC1007S5W: input 1,700 W (listing). LG guide: 1,000 to 1,500 W while the heater is on. IFB Elite ZXS 7 kg (opened) lists its supply as 220 to 240 V, single phase, 16 A. |
| Room heater, fan or blower type | 1,000 to 2,000 W | 2,000 W | Orient Electric Glint and Areva blowers: 1,000 W and 2,000 W settings. Crompton Insta Delight: 665, 1,330 and 2,000 W settings. |
| Oil-filled room heater (radiator) | 2,400 to 2,900 W | 2,900 W | Crompton Insta Ferve oil-filled heaters (listing page opened): 9 fins 2,400 W; 11 and 13 fins 2,900 W. Havells 13-fin model has 1,000, 1,500 and 2,500 W settings (B). |
| Hair dryer | 1,200 W | 1,200 W | Philips HP8120 and Havells HD3152, HD3161, HD2222, HD4161: 1,200 W. One Havells model is marketed as 2,000 W but its own specification table says 1,200 W, so the page is inconsistent and 2,000 W is not used. |
| Television (about 43 inch) | 48 to 100 W | 100 W | Xiaomi 43-inch TV A: 75 W. LG 43-inch models: 48 W, 60 W typical; 88 W maximum; one signage model 99.1 W typical. 100 W is the highest figure rounded up. |
| Ceiling fan | 26 to 75 W | 75 W | Havells 1200 mm: 5-star BLDC fans 26 to 40 W; non-rated Festiva 74 W. 75 W is that highest figure rounded up. |
| LED bulb or tube light (12 W each) | 9 to 12 W | 12 W | Havells LED lamps in 9 W and 12 W sizes (the wattage is in the product name). 12 W used for each. |
| RO water purifier | 25 to 60 W | 60 W | KENT Grand Plus (opened): 'Total Power Consumption 60W', single phase. KENT Excell Plus and Crown Plus-B also 60 W; Livpure states about 25 W. Bigger floor-standing or commercial units are far higher. |
| Laptop charger | 65 to 90 W | 90 W | HP guide: standard laptops use 65 W adapters, performance laptops 90 W adapters (19.5 V). The adapter's output rating is used; the wall draw is slightly higher. |
| Mobile charger or power bank charging | 23 W | 23 W | Havells Empra power banks list 22.5 W wired charging on a Havells category listing page (charging rate, not wall draw). A fast phone charger can be higher. |
| Electric scooter charger (portable, plugs into the wall) | 650 to 950 W | 950 W | TVS iQube FAQ (opened): a plug-and-play portable charger of 950 W or 650 W, usable at any standard 15 A domestic socket. Ather's portable charger is listed at 700 W (search summary only). Highest value used. We treat a vehicle charger as a heavy appliance (our own editorial line, not a standard) because it runs for hours. |
Water pump (0.5 HP or 1 HP): type the watts from the pump's nameplate. A pump's HP rating is the motor's output, and it draws more from the socket.
We have not added any extra for the brief surge when a motor starts, because we found no published figure to base it on.
What the three results mean
- Within limit: below 75 percent of the rating.
- Near limit: 75 percent up to 100 percent of the rating.
- Overload likely: above 100 percent of the rating.
The 75 percent line is our own caution margin. No Indian standard we could find gives a percentage for continuous load, so we do not claim one. We use it because the watts here are typical figures, supply voltage varies, and geysers, heaters and ACs run for hours.
Current = watts divided by (230 x power factor). We use a power factor of 1.0 for plain heating elements (geyser, iron, kettle, heater) and 0.9 for everything else. Real supply voltage varies, and when it drops the same appliance draws more current, so treat the answer as an estimate.
When overload and short circuits went wrong
- Kota Apartment Fire – The Tragic Loss of Child Actor Veer Sharma & His BrotherA short circuit was suspected by police; the exact cause was still being examined.
- Jhansi Medical College NICU Fire: Ten Immediate Deaths, Later Toll Reports DifferA state team reported that an electrical overload led to a short circuit that started in an extension cord.
How we know
The socket ratings used here come from IS 1293:2019, which covers plugs and sockets up to 16 A, and the advice follows Indian fire-service guidance and the CEA safety regulations 2023. Last checked 20 October 2026.
Read the guides behind this tool
Common questions
How is the answer worked out?
We add up the current of every appliance you choose (watts divided by 230 volts and a power factor) and compare it with the rating of the socket, board, MCB or sanctioned load you pick. Above 100 percent of the rating we say overload is likely. From 75 percent up to 100 percent we say near the limit.
What if my home has more than one MCB?
Most homes do. Each circuit (lights, a bedroom AC, the kitchen, the geyser) usually has its own MCB in the distribution board. Choose how many switches feed your appliances, then pick the MCB number on each row. We add up everything on one MCB and compare it with the number printed on that switch. If you cannot tell which switch feeds which socket, an electrician or the labels in the board can tell you.
Why does the tool ask what each appliance is plugged into?
A socket, an extension board and an MCB each have their own limit, and the lowest one is the one that matters. An air conditioner on its own 16 A socket can be fine, while the same air conditioner, a geyser and an induction cooktop on one extension board is not. The same three on one 16 A MCB can also be too much, even when every socket is fine.
Why 75 percent?
It is our own caution margin, not a rule from a standard. We could not find an Indian standard or CEA rule that gives a percentage for continuous load, so we do not quote one. Heaters, geysers and ACs run for hours, and watts on a label are typical figures, so we flag a circuit before it is completely full.
Can I run an AC and a geyser on one 16 A socket?
A 16 A socket gives about 3,680 W. A 1.5 ton AC (up to about 1,740 W in the models we checked) and a 2,000 W storage geyser add up to about 3,740 W, which is over that. Besides, Delhi Fire Service advises one appliance to one socket. Use separate sockets, and ask an electrician about a dedicated circuit for each.
My MCB keeps tripping. Can I put a bigger one?
No. The MCB protects the wire behind the wall. A bigger MCB on thin wire lets the wire overheat before anything trips. Delhi Fire Service advises fuses and breakers of the correct rating. Find out which appliance trips it, run less on that circuit and call an electrician.
What is the difference between an MCB and an RCCB?
An MCB trips when too much current flows, from overload or a short circuit, and protects the wiring. An RCCB trips when current leaks to earth, for example through a person, and protects against shock. A home needs both. Our guide on electrical safety at home explains this.
Why does my pump or my "other" appliance need me to type the watts?
Pumps are sold by horsepower, which describes the motor, not the power it takes from the socket. We found no published input figure we could trust, so we ask for the number on the nameplate instead of guessing.
What is sanctioned load?
It is the load your electricity company has recorded for your connection, in kW. It is usually printed on the bill. The whole-home option compares your appliances with that figure only. It does not tell you whether your wiring can take the load.
Do you store what I choose?
No. The sum is done in your browser. Nothing you choose is sent to us or saved. We count visits with Google Analytics, and the page translator is Google's.
Does this replace an electrician?
No. It is a guide only and not electrical design advice. Only a qualified electrician can check your wiring, sockets, earthing, MCB and RCCB.
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- Home Fire Safety ScoreTwelve yes or no questions. Get a score out of 100 and the three things to fix first.
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- All Safety ToolsThe full list in one place.
- City Safety GuidesFire brigade numbers and stations, city by city.
These tools are for awareness. They do not replace a fire audit, an electrician's visit, medical advice or a call to the emergency services. In an emergency, call 112.